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Telluride Peak Traverse: Don’t Look Down

hiker — Sat, 09 Jul 2011 15:31:04 +0000

Don’t look down, I reminded myself. I could feel my breathing get choppy, and even though we were above 13,000 feet in elevation, I knew it wasn’t from the exertion of being at altitude—it was fear. The serrated ridgeline, sharp and snow-covered, stretched out hundreds of feet ahead of me and I dug my trail running shoes into each icy step, hoping it would hold. Don’t look down.
It was probably a couple of weeks too early in the summer to do it, and I definitely should have brought an ice axe, but the Telluride Peak Traverse still ranks as my all-time favorite hike. The Traverse is one of the new routes in the upcoming third edition of Telluride Hiking Guide, and even later in the season, when the high alpine basins and the knife-edge of a ridgeline are no longer coated with stubborn spring snow, it is a serious adventure.
We parked up at the Bridal Veil Falls power plant and set out from there. The first obstacle was crossing Ingram Falls, which was as frigid and wide-splayed as I’d ever seen it. There was no pattern of rocks and downed trees on which to hop across, so I succumbed, realizing that wet socks and running shoes would be one of the smallest discomforts of the day…and I was right.
Climbing up to the saddle between Ajax Peak and Telluride Peak is a slog, but it was blissfully warm and the views were majestic. Once we reached the saddle, we pulled out some warmer clothes and surveyed the route. Was there too much snow to navigate the ridgeline up to Telluride Peak? Maybe. Should we go for it anyway? Definitely.
We were only a couple of hours into the hike but this was the crux. The ridge was sharp and exposed: falling on either side would mean sliding down a hundred or so yards of snow and landing in the sharp scree, being seriously injured or worse.
Don’t look down.
It was a huge relief to reach Telluride Peak, and the panorama was incredible, from the icy blue of Ptarmigan Lake below to the red and amber-colored peaks that cut the skyline from here to the Weminuche Wilderness beyond Silverton. Telluride Peak would have been an idyllic spot to eat lunch but the clouds were building some height above the cauldron of hot air in the valley below, and we didn’t want to be up that high in a lightning storm, so we kept moving.
Crossing between Telluride Peak and the unnamed Peak beyond (both are about 13,500 feet high) was less intimidating than the section between Ajax Peak and Telluride Peak, because the snowfields were at a lower angle. But as the day grew warmer, more of our footsteps sank in, postholes leaving us in waist-deep snow—wearing shorts. Brrrrrr. Not only did I neglect to wear pants, I also didn’t bring gloves, so I had to dig out my bare legs with bare hands, thinking the whole time about evolution and how people who forget gloves and pants can get weeded out of the gene pool.
Once we reached the final peak, we were greeted by another stunning panoramic view and a peek at the basin where we would start our descent. Below us there was more snow and an ice-covered Ingram Lake…now I know why Ingram Falls were so cold. Getting back to the car should have taken just a couple of hours from here, but it took about four hours, including a not-so-graceful glissade that turned into a sled ride on our backsides. Buttsicles, I kept saying to myself, and because my brain was so oxygen-starved I couldn’t stop giggling. It was even more soggy below, as we plucked our way through willows and muddy snowfields, but eventually we arrived back at the car, wet and exhausted after our seven-hour exploit.
There’s probably a more ideal time to do the Telluride Peak Traverse; maybe a couple of weeks later in the summer, and not during the monsoon season, when electric storms can roll in overhead and make the hike dangerous. But if you are going to try the Traverse soon, bring an ice axe…and try not to look down.

Baby On Board: Waterline Trail to Eider Creek

hiker — Wed, 29 Jun 2011 17:27:39 +0000

I remember being pregnant and thinking how great it was going to be to hike without the extra 25 pounds. I should have known better—I’m still lugging around a couple dozen pounds, only now it’s on my back, in a baby carrier.

And while it may be more ergonomic to carry something on your back than in your belly, last summer I never needed to worry about hysterical crying, sunblock with spf 50 or diapers. Nor did I need to think about how long a hike might take.

This summer, I have to factor in all these things, but luckily my mother-in-law is Susan Kees, the author of Telluride Hiking Guide. I knew she’d have the perfect 3-hour loop for me, and she did: Waterline Trail to Deep Creek to Eider Creek.

The loop—I parked at the bottom of Eider—was fairly long and steep but not so demanding that I’d cramp up or start chomping on the Annie’s cheddar bunnies I’d brought for the baby.

Even if you’re not bogged down with a baby carrier, you might be constrained by time—and if so, this is a great loop and a chance to get high up in the mountains and get a good workout and still be back down in a few hours. I parked at the bottom of Eider Creek, which is on the Waterline/Mill Creek road, just at the bottom of the first switchback. I walked up the road to the Deep Creek trail and followed it until it forked into the Sneffels Highline Trail and the Eider Creek Trail. It was all downhill from there.

Crystal Lake: A Quick Summer Escape

hiker — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 18:20:19 +0000

Crystal Lake is just a short drive away from Telluride and a quick hike from the top of Ophir Pass.

Crystal Lake, at the top of 11,789 foot Ophir Pass, is a summer delight. It’s the perfect, scenic spot for a short hike and a picnic. Drive the rocky, one-lane road up Ophir Pass with caution and respect other vehicles and hikers. The drive takes about a half hour, and a vehicle with high clearance is helpful. Park near the Ophir Pass sign at the top and meander up the rocky slope to your left, through two rocky points. There isn’t a defined trail, so pay attention. Once you’ve ascended this steep slope, several more distinct trails head off to the right and lead to the lake. This can take anywhere from a half to a full hour. The turquoise lake is a lovely spot for lunch and contemplation, and is aptly named: When the sun shines on the wind-rippled lake, dancing crystals appear.

—Susan Kees

Owl Gulch: Another New Telluride Trail

hiker — Sun, 20 Jun 2010 01:40:43 +0000

Owl Gulch provides a terrific view of both Bridal Veil Falls and Ingram Falls.

Telluride residents love the new Owl Gulch cutoff between the Jud Wiebe Trail and Tomboy Road, but they’re not the only locals who have been frequenting the new trail this summer. Bears have also been making their mark on the hiking route.

The young aspen trees all along the highest switchbacks of the trail are riddled with claw marks. Apparently the bruins woke up hungry after their winter nap and have been digging into the trees’ flesh, which is just beneath their bark. The inside of the tree bark has nutritional value not just for bears, but also for people, which is a good bit of information to have should you find yourself starving out in the woods. Of course, the average hiker doesn’t have nails or an appendage anything like a bear does, so you might also want to remember your Swiss army knife if you plan on getting lost and not bringing enough food.

Bears are digging the aspen bark this summer.

Owl Gulch is another new hike that will be featured in the upcoming edition of Telluride Hiking Guide by Susan Kees. The hike has also been known by locals as the “Wild Wiebe” and other names. The trail is about three miles long, like the Wiebe, and also has a similar elevation gain (1,300 feet versus the Wiebe’s 1,200). It’s a fairly steep connector between the Jud Wiebe and Tomboy Road; you can catch the loop going west to east, by taking the singletrack trail to the right off the sixth switchback above the water catchment facility on the Wiebe’s west end. It’s a little harder to find the trail going east to west, but once you’ve done the loop you will have no trouble navigating it either way. It’s a nice alternative to hiking Jud Wiebe or Bear Creek because it’s still a great workout that you can do in less than two hours, but it’s a lot less crowded; which is probably why the bears also like it so much.

Keystone Gorge: Telluride’s Newest Trail

hiker — Mon, 24 May 2010 15:41:02 +0000

Bill and Susan Kees on the Keystone Gorge trail

It’s hard to hear my hiking partner as we try to chat over the growling San Miguel River, which is rumbling loudly, full of spring runoff. Late snow still covers most of Telluride’s hiking and biking trails, but not Keystone Gorge: This fun loop next to the river is one of the first ones to be clear of winter’s clutches. It’s also the latest addition to the list of great hikes around town.

Keystone Gorge Trail was built just last summer, the culmination of efforts by The Nature Conservancy, San Miguel County officials and a host of volunteers. One of those volunteers is my hiking partner, Susan Kees, author of Telluride Hiking Guide. She moved rocks and dirt, helping to construct the trail surrounding the San Miguel River as it cascades through a beautiful gorge that runs from Lawson Hill to Ilium Valley. The 40-acre parcel on which the trail sits was acquired by The Nature Conservancy and the construction of the route meant building two bridges over the river—one which replaced an old bridge that fell into the San Miguel in 2007—to create a loop that runs on the north and south side of the river and takes about an hour and 15 minutes to hike. A portion of the parcel was donated by a private landowner, Pamela Hyde Smith, in honor of her late husband Sydney G. Smith. A bench and plaque commemorate the gift, which was the impetus for building the new trail.

Hikers can pick up the Keystone Gorge trail at Lawson Hill, off the Galloping Goose trail. The Galloping Goose starts at the parking area near the Lawson Hill bus circle, next to Telluride Mountain School. Take the Goose until you spot a right turnoff that drops down to the river and crosses over the brand new bridge; that’s the start of the Keystone Gorge trail. At the trail’s turnaround, there is another new bridge; cross the bridge and head back up the valley until it reconnects with the Goose. The lower bridge is a great place to pause and take in the view. “This is really beautiful,” says Kees, gesturing above us at the water jostling over huge boulders and settling into calm pools. “What a great new trail.”

-Deb Dion Kees

Welcome to the Telluride Hiking Guide

hiker — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 04:25:29 +0000

A view of the east end of the Telluride valley from the Sheridan Crosscut trail

Welcome to the new online companion to the Telluride Hiking Guide, the best local guidebook for finding your way on the trails in and around town. The San Juan Mountains are home to some of the most scenic and magical places you will ever explore, and Telluride is the ultimate place to start your journey.

These mountains are also rugged, and some of the routes and weather can be unforgiving. So arm yourself with the Telluride Hiking Guide before you set out, and visit our site often to get the most up-to-date information about the area. We hope you will share some of your own experiences and beta, too, and we welcome all your comments.

Happy trails!